Evans Experientialism
| ||||
| ||||
![]() MY OLD VILLAGE | ||||
`If we had never before looked upon the earth, but suddenly came to it man or woman grown, set down in the midst of a summer mead, would it not seem to us a radiant vision? The hues, the shapes, the song and life of birds, above all the sunlight, the breath of heaven, resting on it; the mind would be filled with its glory unable to grasp it, hardly believing that such things could be mere matter ... too beautiful to be long watched lest it should fade away.'from: 'Wild Flowers', The Open Air. | ||||
| MY OLD VILLAGE.
'John Brown is dead,' said an aged friend
and visitor in answer to my inquiry for the
strong labourer.
'Is he really dead?' I asked, for it seemed
impossible.
'He is. He came home from his work in the
evening as usual, and seemed to catch his
foot in the threshold and fell forward on
the floor. When they picked him up he was
dead.'
I remember the doorway; a raised piece of
wood ran across it, as is commonly the case
in country cottages, such as one might easily
catch one's foot against if one did not notice
it; but he knew that bit of wood well. The
floor was of brick, hard to fall on and die.
He must have come down over the crown of
the hill, with his long slouching stride,
as if his legs had been half pulled away
from his body by his heavy boots in the furrows
when a ploughboy. He must have turned up
the steps in the bank to his cottage, and
so, touching the threshold, ended. He is
gone through the great doorway, and one pencil-mark
is rubbed out. There used to be a large hearth
in that room, a larger room than in most
cottages; and when the fire was lit, and
the light shone on the yellowish red brick
beneath and the large rafters overhead, it
was homely and pleasant. In summer the door
was always wide open. Close by on the high
bank there was a spot where the first wild
violets came. You might look along miles
of hedgerow, but there were never any until
they had shown by John Brown's.
If a man's work that he has done all the
days of his life could be collected and piled
up around him in visible shape, what a vast
mound there would be beside some! If each
act or stroke was represented, say by a brick,
John Brown would have stood the day before
his ending by the side of a monument as high
as a pyramid. Then if in front of him could
be placed the sum and product of his labour,
the profit to himself, he could have held
it in his clenched hand like a nut, and no
one would have seen it. Our modern people
think they train their sons to strength by
football and rowing and jumping, and what
are called athletic exercises; all of which
it is the fashion now to preach as very noble,
and likely to lead to the goodness of the
race. Certainly feats are accomplished and
records are beaten, but there is no real
strength gained, no hardihood built up. Without
hardihood it is of little avail to be able
to jump an inch farther than somebody else.
Hardihood is the true test, hardihood is
the ideal, and not these caperings or ten
minutes' spurts.
Now, the way they made the boy John Brown
hardy was to let him roll about on the ground
with naked legs and bare head from morn till
night, from June till December, from January
till June. The rain fell on his head, and
he played in wet grass to his knees. Dry
bread and a little lard was his chief food.
He went to work while he was still a child.
At half-past three in the morning he was
on his way to the farm stables, there to
help feed the cart-horses, which used to
be done with great care very early in the
morning. The carter's whip used to sting
his legs, and sometimes he felt the butt.
I used to watch him mowing with amazement.
Sometimes he would begin at half-past two
in the morning, and continue till night.
About eleven o'clock, which used to be the
mowers' noon, he took a rest on a couch of
half-dried grass in the shade of the hedge.
For the rest, it was mow, mow, mow for the
long summer day.
John Brown was dead: died in an instant at
his cottage door. I could hardly credit it,
so vivid was the memory of his strength.
The gap of time since I had seen him last
had made no impression on me; to me he was
still in my mind the John Brown of the hayfield;
there was nothing between then and his death.
He used to catch us boys the bats in the
stable, and tell us fearful tales of the
ghosts he had seen; and bring the bread from
the town in an old-fashioned wallet, half
in front and half behind, long before the
bakers' carts began to come round in country
places. One evening he came into the dairy
carrying a yoke of milk, staggering, with
tipsy gravity; he was quite sure he did not
want any assistance, he could pour the milk
into the pans. He tried, and fell at full
length and bathed himself from head to foot.
Of later days they say he worked in the town
a good deal, and did not look so well or
so happy as on the farm. In this cottage
opposite the violet bank they had small-pox
once, the only case I recollect in the hamlet--the
old men used to say everybody had it when
they were young; this was the only case in
my time, and they recovered quickly without
any loss, nor did the disease spread. A roomy
well-built cottage like that, on dry ground,
isolated, is the only hospital worthy of
the name.
The hundreds of times I saw the tall chimney
of that cottage rise out of the hill-side
as I came home at all hours of the day and
night! the first chimney after a long journey,
always comfortable to see, especially so
in earlier days, when we had a kind of halting
belief in John Brown's ghosts, several of
which were dotted along that road according
to him. The ghosts die as we grow older,
they die and their places are taken by real
ghosts. I wish I had sent John Brown a pound
or two when I was in good health; but one
is selfish then, and puts off things till
it is too late--a lame excuse verily. I can
scarcely believe now that he is really dead,
gone as you might casually pluck a hawthorn
leaf from the hedge.
The next cottage was a very marked one, for
houses grow to their owners. The low thatched
roof had rounded itself and stooped down
to fit itself to Job's shoulders; the walls
had got short and thick to suit him, and
they had a yellowish colour, like his complexion,
as if chewing tobacco had stained his cheeks
right through. Tobacco juice had likewise
penetrated and tinted the wall. It was cut
off as it seemed by a party-wall into one
room, instead of which there were more rooms
beyond which no one would have suspected.
Job had a way of shaking hands with you with
his right hand, while his left hand was casually
doing something else in a detached sort of
way. 'Yes, sir,' and 'No, sir,' and nodding
to everything you said all so complaisant,
but at the end of the bargain you generally
found yourself a few shillings in some roundabout
manner on the wrong side. Job had a lot of
shut-up rooms in his house and in his character,
which never seemed to be opened to daylight.
It was a pretty cottage, well backed with
trees and bushes, with a south-east mixture
of sunlight and shade, and little touches
that cannot be suggested by writing. Job
had not got the Semitic instinct of keeping.
The art of acquisition he possessed to some
extent, that was his right hand; but somehow
the half-crowns slipped away through his
unstable left hand, and fortune was a greasy
pole to him. His left hand was too cunning
for him, it wanted to manage things too cleverly.
If it had only had the Semitic grip, digging
the nails into the flesh to hold tight each
separate coin, he would have been village
rich. The great secret is the keeping. Finding
is by no means keeping. Job did not flourish
in his old days; the people changed round
about. Job is gone, and I think every one
of that cottage is either dead or moved.
Empty.
The next cottage was the water-bailiffs,
who looked after the great pond or 'broad'.
There were one or two old boats, and he used
to leave the oars leaning against a wall
at the side of the house. These oars looked
like fragments of a wreck, broken and irregular.
The right-hand scull was heavy, as if made
of ironwood, the blade broad and spoon-shaped,
so as to have a most powerful grip of the
water. The left-hand scull was light and
slender, with a narrow blade like a marrow
scoop; so when you had the punt, you had
to pull very hard with your left hand and
gently with the right to get the forces equal.
The punt had a list of its own, and no matter
how you roved, it would still make leeway.
Those who did not know its character were
perpetually trying to get this crooked wake
straight, and consequently went round and
round exactly like the whirligig beetle.
Those who knew used to let the leeway proceed
a good way and then alter it, so as to act
in the other direction like an elongated
zigzag. These sculls the old fellow would
bring you as if they were great treasures,
and watch you off in the punt as if he was
parting with his dearest. At that date it
was no little matter to coax him round to
unchain his vessel.
After this the cottages and houses came in
little groups, some up crooked lanes, hidden
away by elms as if out of sight in a cupboard,
and some dotted along the brooks, scattered
so that, unless you had connected them all
with a very long rope, no stranger could
have told which belonged to the village and
which did not. They drifted into various
tithings, and yet it was all the same place.
They were all thatched. It was a thatched
village. This is strictly accurate and strictly
inaccurate, for I think there were one or
two tiled and one 'slated,' and perhaps a
modern one slated. Nothing is ever quite
rigid or complete that is of man; all rules
have a chip in them. The way they builded
the older thatched farmhouses as to put up
a very high wall in front and a very low
one behind, and then the roof in a general
way sloped down from the high wall to the
low wall, an acre broad of thatch. These
old thatched houses seemed to be very healthy
so long as the old folk lived in them in
the old-fashioned way. Thatch is believed
to give an equable temperature. The air blew
all round them, and it might be said all
through them; for the front door was always
open three parts of the year, and at the
back the dairies were in a continual blow.
Upstairs the houses were only one room thick,
so that each wall was an outside wall, or
rather it was a wall one side and thatched
the other, so that the wind went through
if a window as open. Modern houses are often
built two rooms thick, so that the air does
not circulate from one side to the other.
No one seemed to be ill, unless he brought
it home with him from some place where he
had been visiting. The diseases they used
to have were long-lived, such as rheumatism,
which may keep a man comfortably in aches
and pains forty years.
Almost the first thing I did with pen and
ink as a boy was to draw a map of the hamlet
with the roads and lanes and paths, and I
think some of the ponds, and with each of
the houses marked and the occupier's name.
Of course it was very roughly done, and not
to any scale, yet it was perfectly accurate
and full of detail. I wish I could find it,
but the confusion of time has scattered and
mixed these early papers. A map by Ptolemy
would bear as much resemblance to the same
country in a modern atlas as mine to the
present state of that locality. It is all
gone--rubbed out. The names against the whole
of those houses have been altered, one only
excepted, and changes have taken place there.
Nothing remains. This is not in a century,
half a century, or even in a quarter of a
century, but in a few ticks of the clock.
I think I have heard that the oaks are down.
They may be standing or down, it matters
nothing to me; the leaves I last saw upon
them are gone for evermore, nor shall I ever
see them come there again ruddy in spring.
I would not see them again even if I could;
they could never look again as they used
to do. There are too many memories there.
The happiest days become the saddest afterwards;
let us never go back, lest we too die. There
are no such oaks anywhere else, none so tall
and straight, and with such massive heads,
on which the sun used to shine as if on the
globe of the earth, one side in shadow, the
other in bright light. How often I have looked
at oaks since, and yet have never been able
to get the same effect from them! Like an
old author printed in another type, the words
are the same, but the sentiment is different.
The brooks have ceased to run. There is no
music now at the old hatch where we used
to sit in danger of our lives, happy as kings,
on the narrow bar over the deep water.
There used to be footpaths. Following one
of them, the first field always had a good
crop of grass; over the next stile there
was a great oak standing alone in the centre
of the field, generally a great cart-horse
under it, and a few rushes scattered about
the furrows; the fourth was always full of
the finest clover; in the fifth you could
scent the beans on the hill, and there was
a hedge like a wood, and a nest of the long-tailed
tit; the sixth had a runnel and blue forget-me-nots;
the seventh had a brooklet and scattered
trees along it; from the eighth you looked
back on the slope and saw the thatched houses
you had left behind under passing shadows,
and rounded white clouds going straight for
the distant hills, each cloud visibly bulging
and bowed down like a bag. I cannot think
how the distant thatched houses came to stand
out with such clear definition and etched
outline and bluish shadows; and beyond these
was the uncertain vale that had no individuality,
but the trees put their arms together and
became one. All these were meadows, every
step was among grass, beautiful grass, and
the cuckoos sang as if they had found paradise.
A hundred years ago a little old man with
silver buckles on his shoes used to walk
along this footpath once a week in summer,
taking his children over to drink milk at
the farm; but though he set them every time
to note the number of fields, so busy were
they with the nests and the flowers, they
could never be sure at the end of the journey
whether there were eight or nine. To make
quite sure at last, he took with them a pocket
full of apples, one of which was eaten in
each field, and so they came to know for
certain that the number of meadows was either
eight or nine, I forget which; and so you
see this great experiment did not fix the
faith of mankind. Like other great truths,
it has grown dim, but it seems strange to
think how this little incident could have
been borne in mind for a century.
The walnut trees are dead at home. They gave
such a thick shade when the fruit was juicy
ripe, and the hoods cracked as they fell;
they peeled as easy as taking off a glove;
the sweetest and nuttiest of fruit. It was
delicious to sit there with a great volume
of Sir Walter Scott, half in sunshine, half
in shade, dreaming of 'Kenilworth' and Wayland
Smith's cave; only the difficulty was to
balance the luxuries, when to peel the walnuts
and when to read the book, and how to adjust
oneself to perfection so as to get the exact
amount of sunshine and shadow. Too much luxury.
There was a story, too, told by one Abu-Kaka
ibn Ja'is, of the caravan that set forth
in 1483 to cross the desert, and being overwhelmed
by a sandstorm, lost their way. They wandered
for some time till hunger and thirst began
to consume them, and then suddenly lit on
an oasis unknown to the oldest merchant of
Bagdad. There they found refreshing waters
and palms and a caravanserai; and, what was
most pleasant, the people at the bazaar and
the prince hastened to fill them with hospitality;
sheep were killed, and kids were roasted,
and all was joy. They were not permitted
to depart till they had feasted, when they
set out again on their journey, and each
at leaving was presented with strings of
pearls and bags of rubies, so that at last
they came home with all the magnificence
of kings. They found, however, that instead
of having been absent only a month or two
they had been gone twenty years, so swiftly
had time sped. As they grew old, and their
beards grey, and their frames withered, and
the pearls were gone, and the rubies spent,
they said, 'We will go back to the city of
the oasis.' They set out, each on his camel,
one lame, the other paralytic, and the third
blind, but still the way was plain, for had
they not trodden it before? and they had
with them the astrolabe of the astronomer
that fixes the track by the stars. Time wore
on, and presently the camels' feet brought
them nearer and nearer the wished-for spot.
One saw the water, and another the palms,
but when they came near, it was the mirage,
and deep sand covered the place. Then they
separated, and each hastened home; but the
blind had no leader, and the lame fell from
his camel, and the paralytic had no more
dates, and their whited bones have disappeared.
[Footnote: The Arabian commentator thinks
this story a myth: the oasis in the desert
is the time of youth, which passes so quickly,
and is not recognised till it is gone; the
pearls and rubies, the joys of love, which
make the fortunate lover as a king. In old
age every man is afflicted with disease or
infirmity, every one is paralytic, lame,
or blind. They set out to find a second youth--the
dream of immortality--with the astrolabe,
which is the creed or Koran all take as their
guide. And death separated the company.
Was every one, then, so pleasant to me in
those days? were the people all so beneficent
and kindly that I must needs look back; all
welcoming with open hand and open door? No,
the reverse; there was not a single one friendly
to me. Still that has nothing to do with
it; I never thought about them, and I am
quite certain they never thought about me.
They are all gone, and there is an end. Incompatibility
would describe our connection best. Nothing
to do with them at all; it was me. I planted
myself every where--in all the fields and
under all the trees. The curious part of
it is that though they are all dead, and
'worms have eaten them, but not for love,'
we continually meet them in other shapes.
We say, 'Holloa, here is old So-and-so coming;
that is exactly his jaw, that's his Flemish
face;' or, 'By Jove, yonder is So-and-so;
that's his very walk:' one almost expects
them to speak as one meets them in the street.
There seem to be certain set types which
continually crop up again whithersoever you
go, and even certain tricks of speech and
curves of the head---a set of family portraits
walking about the world. It was not the people,
neither for good, for evil, nor indifference.
I planted myself every here under the trees
in the fields and footpaths, by day and by
night, and that is why I have never put myself
into the charge of the many wheeled creatures
that move on the rails and gone back thither,
lest I might find the trees look small, and
the elms mere switches, and the fields shrunken,
and the brooks dry, and no voice anywhere.
Nothing but my own ghost to meet me by every
hedge. I fear lest I should find myself more
dead than all the rest And verily I wish,
could it be without injury to others, that
the sand of the desert would rise and roll
over and obliterate the place for ever and
ever.
I need not wish, for I have been conversing
again with learned folk about this place,
and they begin to draw my view to certain
considerations. These very learned men point
out to me a number of objections, for the
question they sceptically put is this: are
you quite certain that such a village ever
existed? In the first place, they say, you
have only got one other witness beside yourself,
and she is aged, and has defective sight;
and really we don't know what to say to accepting
such evidence unsupported. Secondly, John
Brown cannot be found to bear testimony.
Thirdly, there are no ghosts there; that
can be demonstrated. It renders a case unsubstantial
to introduce these flimsy spirits. Fourthly,
the map is lost, and it might be asked was
there ever such a map? Fifthly, the people
are all gone. Sixthly, no one ever saw any
particular sparkle on the brook there, and
the clouds appear to be of the same commonplace
order that go about everywhere. Seventhly,
no one can find these footpaths, which probably
led nowhere; and as for the little old man
with silver buckles on his shoes, it is a
story only fit for some one in his dotage. | ||||
BACK TO TOP OF PAGE |